Nobu: Review (previously published February 6th, 2012)

Everything you have heard in other reviews is true!

   I always had a very close interest in Nobu, rightly because it is one of the most acclaimed franchises in the world. All Nobu restaurants are the same, in standard and food, consistently watched over by celebrated Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, and successfully, so that Nobu London was awarded a Michelin Star in 1997, that it still owns today.

When other chefs have failed, trying to be too big a name, opening as many restaurants as possible while on the high, Nobu is the perfect model of perfection. Nobu never fails to impress, that is true, but Nobu never fails to deliver great food and great service.

Nobu Park Lane alone caters on average for 400 covers a day, with 170 seats and a sushi bar, and handling such demand is no easy task. In all fairness, sushi, sashimi, and tiny dishes, however, complex and immaculately presented, are easier – and a lot faster – to plate than, let say, Alain Ducasse or Gordon Ramsey dishes. Still, the wait between dishes is never too long, and the flavours are amazing.

It is also true that there is a lot of sparkles from the Hollywood A-Listers, boosting the fame of the Franchise, for eating at Nobu L.A. before the Oscars ceremony, is for the Nominees a ritual for good luck – to win the actual and most coveted golden statuette.
Robert de Niro being a patron also helps to the fame (He also made Nobu audition for a part in the movie: Casino, where he plays a a rich Japanese gambler with a penchant for stealing hotel towels). How more Hollywood can it get?

Keeping the same appearances, Nobu London, niched on the first floor of the ‘Ultra-fashionable’ Metropolitan Hotel, give tabloids loads to write about. Simply put, Nobu, for it is reassuringly expensive for Politicians, Royalties, Stars and Models (and needs to be said: healthy for the last), is the place where everyone knows who you are, and where you know who the others are.
Yet, it has to be said, anyone can eat at Nobu, as long as you book well in advance. Not such a bad thing after all, as it will allow you to save for the experience, if you are not one of ‘them’.
Again, Nobu’s cooking book, specially edited for the Japan Tsunami disaster, was on sale for £250. I settled for the current version at £25, obviously…

Because, Nobu mixes Far-Eastern and Western flavours, it will never be celebrated as a traditional Japanese restaurant, for it lacks the very precise seriousness, and ritual so dear to the country. It really does not matter to Nobu, for its Tokyo restaurant, for example, has guests waiting weeks for a table.

All in all, Nobu is a true success, and it was an honour to have tried, enjoyed, and wrote about it.
Most of the success, however, upon my experience, was the amazing professionalism of the staff that so may restaurants in London truly and hopelessly lack. The waitress in charge of our table will for long be regarded as one of the most amazing in my life. Her attention to every details surpassed any expectation, and she took the time to explain every dish, Nobu concept, and topping up our drinks was for her second nature.

I have left the restaurant very happy, and if I had to compare it to ‘Zuma’, just to give one name, I would without any hesitation go back to Nobu. For Zuma, trying to be the ‘other Nobu’ has failed completely to impress with a complete lack of professionalism from its staff. Also, it has to be said, I spent 3 hours and some at Nobu, and it was such a pleasure not to be on a timer as I was at Zuma.


Dishes Sampled
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Edamame with Rock Salt
Description:
Blanched Edamame pods sprinkled with salt flakes, served hot

Oshitashi (Spinach)
Presentation:
Pile of spinach with Sesame seeds, raw Shiitake mushrooms with Ponzu sauce (Soy sauce infused with Japanese Yuzu lime). 
Description:
Wet Spinach in Ponzu sauce with Sesame seeds and raw shiitake mushrooms, with 2 sticks of burdock root (a kind of Japanese Salsify) marinated in Dashi (fish stock), served in a Jade colour bowl.
Taste:
Very earthy, and tangy from the Ponzu sauce, with a nice nutty flavour from the Sesame Seeds. 
Originality:
Zuma proposes the same dish, however, it is served dried and cold. Nobu’s dish is soft and well flavoured using the Ponzu dressing.

New Style Salmon and Shrimp Sashimi
Presentation:
Two single dishes served in one plate from our choice, with a sprinkle of chopped Chives. 
Description:
Salmon and Prawns are partially cooked from the lime juice, and marinade (90% Olive Oil, 10% Sesame Oil, Yuzu and Ponzu). 
Taste:
Despite the fact that the Prawns and the dish overall was a little bit bitter – and unnecessarily – greasy (you can feel the oil coating the inside of your mouth), the Salmon was exquisite, soft, literally melting. 
Originality:
Yuzu and subsequently Ponzu, are the ingredients in the heart of the new Japanese cuisine, and I have to say I have fallen in love with the taste.

Yellowtail and Jalapeno 
Presentation:
6 very thin slices of Yellowtail, with slices of Jalapeno and Coriander leaves. 
Taste:
The best way to enjoy this dish is to pick one slice of Yellowtail and Jalapeno, and a leave of coriander. Absolutely delicious, and so fragrant.
Originality:
Once again, Ponzu sauce brings flavour to the dish. Amazing.

Lobster Seviche
Presentation:
Beautifully presented in miniature lettuce leaves. 
Description:
Finely sliced Red Onions, brunoise Lobster (marinated ‘à la minute’ with black pepper, lemon juice and Yuzu juice) and Tomato.
Taste:
The earthiness of the Lettuce works very well with the tanginess and lemony taste of the marinade. 

Nobu Tacos Salmon
Presentation:
Finely chopped Tomatoes with their juice, Coriander Leaves, Lemon juice and Chilli Salsa, with Red Onions (loads of it). 
Description:
Sweet Wonton circles cooked in the shape of a taco.
Taste:
The sweetness of the wonton works very well with the spiciness of the salsa and delicate flesh of the coarse Salmon Tartare. 
Originality:
Far-East meets Mexico.

Salmon Sashimi Salad
Presentation:
Seared Salmon sashimi with mixed leaves, shredded Dicon (Japanese radish) and carrots. 
Description:
Fine brunoise of Red Onions, Black Pepper and Sesame Oil dressing with Ponzu and Lemon juice. 
Taste:
Bitterness of leaves is ‘killed’ by sweetness of dressing and sesame oil (loads). 
Originality:
Very rich and flavoursome 

Cabbage and Truffle Oil
Presentation:
Grilled squares of Chinese round Cabbage. 
Description:
Squares of Cabbage are put on skewers then quickly seared on Teppanyaki plate, to give the ‘char’ taste, then drizzled with light Truffle Oil.
Originality:
Perfect to serve with Lobster.

Prawns Tempura Cut Roll
Presentation:
6 Rolls of Sushi Nori with Prawn Tempura in the middle. 
Description:
Prawn tempura is rolled hot inside rice and Nori sheet, with Garlic and Chilli Mayonnaise, and then cut to size. 
Originality:
Hot sushi!

Black Cod in Miso (Signature dish, main picture)
Presentation:
‘Pavé’ of Cod on Green leaf with Ginger Shoots and lemon slices, with drops of Yuzu flavoured Miso.  
Description:
Cod is marinated in Sweet Miso sauce for 2 days (with skin on) then placed under salamander to cook (however, skin is not cooked, as it is cooked only from the top, and barely touched) . 
Taste:
Perfectly cooked – slightly pink in the middle and flaky – with a dominant sweet taste of caramel, enhanced by lemon juice. 
Originality:
Amazing adaptation of flavours of sweet and sour.

Rock Shrimp Tempura with Three Dipping Sauce
Presentation:
Bowl of Shrimp tales in light tempura on top of mixed leaves, with 3 sauces on the side.  
Description:
sauces: 
1) Jalapeno Sauce: Garlic, Jalapeno Chilli Pepper, Coriander and Grapeseed Oil, 
2) Citrus Sauce:  Ponzu, Rice Vinegar, Soy Sauce and finely chopped Chives, 
3) Cream Sauce: Light mayonnaise, Chilli purée and Tabasco
Taste:
Very light and crispy tempura, ideal with sauce 2, sprinkled with finely chipped Chives. 

Bento Desert Box with Green Tea Ice-cream
Presentation:
Chocolate fondant dessert, with a delicious liquid inside, scoop of Match Green Tea, with sesame biscuit (under the ice-cream).
Taste:
Very nice combination, Chocolate and Green Tea, in a way, create a pistachio flavour.
Perfect end to the meal.